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Thank you! We think these colors play well together too. They are so similar, but also polar opposites.

this is for sandblasting

@@jeffreyharbin5211 Yes. We have to clean the parts first. We have been trying different materials to do so. But, I must have written it wrong . But by connecting a ground wire to this, would you be able to use a process and a tool (canister) similar to this for the powder too. I. Get, that you would not be able to “Shake” it . Because that would then cause the powder to fall off too. The electricity does NOT need to be continuous after it has been sprayed on to the pieces that have been sprayed. I’m referring to small pieces specifically here because of their inherent difficulty in coverage. Is this making sense to you?

@scotthooper4170 yes I understand now, theoretically yes you could however I'm not sure what the benefits would be considering you wouldn't be able to move the parts around to get full coverage, and if you did the powder would shake off so I only see this being useful for sandblasting but if I'm missing something here please further explain because although I'm not sure how you would, but if you could rig this device for spraying powder I think that would be really neat

it 100% would make it easier to sandblast though, I hate holding little nuts and washers in my fingers especially since those cabinet gloves make your fingers bigger than they really are ahah)

@@jeffreyharbin5211 Ahhhh. Okay then. I’ve been wanting to do the kids (grandkids) bikes (closest thing you can call them, no peddles) #7 on the way in August. And these things get trashed out here! They fade fast. And it gives me something to do since I’m retired. I naturally figured I could move up to the powered toys from there. The other obvious is degreasing. Which is “Arch Enemy #1. When doing powder coating.

We don't use Wagner systems, so unfortunately I can't offer you any worthwhile advice other than to get ahold of your rep or customer service at Wagner. A standard setting could be useful when getting started but typically you'll be changing the settings based upon the powder you happen to be spraying. If the mil thickness is building too slowly you could start by addressing your voltage settings.

Yes, adjusting the emissivity settings on the IR thermometer was this issue in this experiment. Since we have two identical parts, in the same oven at the same temp, and one part that serves as the black body, but two different results it illustrates how the part metal temperatures can indeed be identical but the readings from the surface can be different. This illustrates the need to make adjustments for accurate readings.

@PrismaticPowders but how can we be 100% sure that the two parts are identical temps - even though they're in the same oven at the same temp, one part is a black body so it will absorb more heat anyways, and more heat absorbed = hotter temperatures for that black body part so if this was the case the IR thermometer may actually be giving accurate readings already and does not to be adjusted I'm sorry if this seems condescending I am honestly just trying to understand EVERYTHING powder coated related and you guys are the experts and so I figured I would run that theory by you guys and see what you think, is there a possibility what I said could be true? Would the black body part be hotter since it absorbs more heat? I only ask because when I set my oven at 375°F some parts come out at 375° whereas others come out around 450° so that almost leads me to believe that some metals get hotter and absorb more heat than others (upwards of 100% sometimes when I pull 450° parts out of a 375° oven) there is so much science involved in this industry I love it! Please let me know what you think of my thoughts and correct me where needed, trying to get a better understanding, thank you! It makes us customers very very happy when you take the time to respond to us on here 🙂

@PrismaticPowders I know the emissivity factor does indeed play a role in the accuracy of the readings but in this case since you compared chrome to black could both factors (IR thermometer needs adjustment as well as the black part absorbs more heat and so it's quite simply just a little hotter than the chrome piece) potentially be affecting the end result? In other words, could it be that the IR thermometer does need adjusting but also that the black body should absorb more heat than the chrome piece and potentially be a couple degrees hotter than the chrome piece due to this increased heat absorbtion? (and not just a couple degrees off due to the IR thermometer solely) I'm currently unemployed and very interested, sorry in advance 😅 I hope this makes sense, cheers 🍻

If you're careful about mil thickness and it's done at flowout, yes.

the spring looks more copper and everything else looks more gold

The are about as identical as can be, but I think what you may be seeing is the larger highlights on the parts with more surface area. That coil doesn't allow for much of a reflection so it makes it seem darker.

No, the Illusion is the base coat.

1.75 actually

You're right, cleaning racks, grinding off the old powder should be a routine to help get a ground. Even if you have an earth ground to the rack, the racking surface must be free of insulators.

Grind and run thru the muriatic acid wash and rinse, hit the dryoff oven. Paint, cure oven. ✨️

You can place the parts back in the oven to finish the curing cycle as long as they have not been contaminated or damaged while sitting.

Ideally you want to start with bare metal that has a blast profile, but you can abrade the old powder with red scotch brite, discharge and put new powder on top....if need be.

Reach out to our technical support team. They will get you pointed in the right direction for a successful outcome. As you are experiencing not all powders spray the same, and there are some nuances that are learned from experience. Our tech support team will give you a short cut. technicalsupport@prismaticpowders.com

The best results are found with Acrylic Clear APS 11224 because of its flowout characteristics. All clears have an affect on Chromes, but Acrylic Clear will have the least affect

Yes, this is a common issue with all clears, essentially any time you have a clear layer, you will have some refraction due to how that layer flows out. We have found that Acrylic Clear yields a nicer result with less refraction.

With no personal experience with the unit I don't have enough information to offer any specific information to give regarding that specific setup, however there are a few pitfalls with single voltage guns. For example, one potential problem is that some powders like metallics will spray better with some fine tuning of the voltage.

Thank you! Happy to hear this video helped you out!

It really depends on the metallic used. There are some that would require it and some that don't. We make notes in the product descriptions for the colors that need a clear. )

It would also depend on the environment that its in. If it's in an environment that is conducive to oxidation from moisture and other chemicals it could happen over a matter of weeks or months.

Do you out gas the color underneath before adding clear and baking them?

We run a metal wire through a large silicone plug from our plug kit for travel mugs, making sure the wire stays in contact with the cup itself. The part number on that plug kit is SE-262, then we used high temp tape to mask off any other areas where powder could creep in.

We could deep dive that. Have you had trouble with any other Epoxy powder or just the Primer?

You're going to do great things!

I'm glad you caught that, and read the directions. While I can't speak to that specific product, it "may" be how polishes work via micro-abrasives. These micro-abrasives, could diminish the transparent nature of the topcoat. All those tiny scuffs might be alright for a solid tone, but could cloud a transparent topcoat.

Tiny bubbles in the finish could be the result of a few things, possibly contamination in the powder or on the substrate. If it was overspray, it will definitely have a fine texture to it. Depending on your situation and what your goals were with the project. Masking and or wiping the surfaces completely are necessary to prevent or remove unwanted powder from a surface. Hope that helps

It's usually rusty material

The best practice is to do it before, but that doesn't mean you cant do it after. The reason for this is that the process of outgassing can also bring oils to the surface which you'll need to remove before coating. It just makes for a simpler process.

Most of the time no, but there are some powders that require full curing (such as Super Chrome Plus)

@@PrismaticPowders Thank you so much for the information

Great combination. We like that subtle look. You almost don't know it's there but when the light hits it...BAM!

Hi, if you are getting a clay-like consistency, you will need more acetone to thin out the mix.

We would not recommend it. While it could "dry" completely most water will have some kind of mineral and chemical content and it's hard to say what those contaminants could do, because they will be left behind when the water dries.

No

We used acetone. Water would take too long to evaporate and could possibly contain contaminants that would create adverse effects.